Week 1 in Tuvalu

The early plane ride to Naisori, Suva was bumpy but short, only 30 minutes. The baggage carousel must be the shortest one in the world. Barely long enough for a trolley load at about 6m long. But it worked. The baggage handlers throw the bags on one side and passengers grab them off the other.

Baggage Carousel at Naisori International Airport, Suva


My trip to Tuvalu was uneventful as opposed to last Saturday’s plane. Having been on the island for four days I positioned myself for a closeup shot of the plane landing, only it didn’t.

Watch the video of the dog causing the plane to go around

It went around twice, once for a dog on the runway and once due to heavy rain. The third time lucky was the highlight for the local kids who had gathered to watch.

Watch a Fiji Airways ATR72-600 landing

Much of my week was about introductions and enquiries. We were supposed to have already started work but the boat carrying our gear got turned away and we had to wait until Saturday for it to discharge our cargo.

Our cargo ship dock at the wharf

Further frustrations for Doug, our Project Manager, is the waiting for our depot site to be approved. We have to ask someone, to ask someone, to ask the Minister of Transport and then we have to repeat the process for the Minister of Waste. And it all takes time. As the first guy tells us, “It good be tomorrow and tomorrow it could be tomorrow.” All we can do is sit and wait.

There are six of us here this week and only one, Brendon, our supervisor will stay on next week. The rest are all off the island for a week or more. Our lodge is right next to the airport apron. And I mean, right next to. At lunch on Saturday we could feel the propellor wash when the plane taxied away from the terminal.

View of terminal from Filamona Lodge 

The four planes a week hold everyone’s interest for the hour or so they are here. None more so than the tourists who gather for the customary photo or video of the action.


When it’s time for the plane to land, airport staff ride off to close the cross-runway roads. The runway is checked and any dogs are shooed away.

The road parallel to the runway is cleared of traffic and the crowds gather in anticipation of another beast from the sky.


Once the plane has stopped outside the terminal the roads are opened and life goes back to normal,

Watch normal traffic resume until takeoff time when the whole traffic event is repeated.

Watch Fiji Airways ATR72-600 taking off

It’s illegal to drive along the runway, but there are designated crossings at various locations.


I’ve been for a swim in the lagoon at both the north and south ends, as well as walking to the farthest points of land. The water temperature is pleasantly warm, and so is the Pacific Ocean. I can’t wait to get snorkelling in the conservation park on the western side of the atoll. Something to plan for the future

South end of Funifuti islet

North end of Funifuti islet looking towards Amatuku

My first impressions of the place are that it’s reasonably crowded in the Fongavale township, which is most of the main part of the island and there’s a lot of rubbish. The vast majority of establishments have some sort of junk around them, be it a broken down car or scooter, whiteware, or just derelict building materials. There are probably as many dogs and scooters as there are people.

Map of Vaiaku, Fongafale Islet, Funafuti Atoll, Tuvalu

Next week, I'll be back in New Zealand.
Location: F55G+FM Vaiaku, Tuvalu

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