Week Four

As I write this week’s blog, a church group sings in the maneapa next door.

Watch the women warming up

The women are sitting at opposite ends to the men and each group take turns in singing.

Hear the women sing

And the men respond

Sometimes there’s a soloist and sometimes they all sign together. They had their church service this morning at 10 am then all walked the hundred or so metres down to the maneapa for lunch, fellowship and of course, singing.

The Vaiaku Vaialofa Church

Of the 11,500 Tuvaluans, 92% are Christians with 86% belonging to the Church of Tuvalu (CoT).

Twelve churches on Fongafale Islet cater for the 6000 inhabitants of which only about 840 are not members of the CoT.

A curious thing happens every night at 6:45 – 7:00 pm. The police park in the middle of the main intersections with their light bars going,

Police stop the traffic between 6:45 & 7:00 pm Mon-Sat

and a bell tolls at the beginning and end to signify the call to “devotion” when the island stops for 15 minutes.

Ceremonial Bell atop the functional bell (old gas cylinder) below.

All work, driving, drinking and eating is paused to allow everyone time to pray. Amazingly even the atheists appear to respect the quiet time.

I headed out to the Morning Star Church which is the largest church on the islet and ToC.

Morning Star Church, Church of Tuvalu

While the minister spoke in Tuvaluan, I recognised the familiar format of a Christian service and was treated to some great singing by the large congregation.

Hear the Morning Star Church Congregation

On my way back I passed by the smaller Vaiaku Vaialofa Church and still more singing.

The fine day was made all the more pleasant by listening to hymns and traditional songs.

Parishioners' scooters outside Vaiaku Vaialofa Church


The highest point on Fongafale is only about 3m and that's really a bund of broken coral built up by the Pacific Ocean around the seaward shore. Because of their Christian beliefs, the deceased are buried. Most houses have a tomb of some sort outside them, with some being more ornate than most. Towards the north of the island where it is a lot narrower, the burials are on the higher seaward side.

Tomb and gravestones with the Pacific in the background


In contrast to the relaxed pace of the island lifestyle, Tuvalu has embraced technology. The rooves of Government buildings are festooned with solar panels, most probably the highest concentration I’ve seen outside of a solar energy farm.

Convention Centre and Government office beyond


They even have street lights sporting solar panels which appear to be donated to the nation by the Republic of China, Taiwan. Being an isolated nation means reliance on outside communication and the islanders have swooped on Starlink to solve that issue.

Solar street light and Starlink on roof beyond

For about $350 outlay and an $80 minimum monthly fee, anyone can get fast reliable internet services thanks to Elon Musk and his myriad of satellites, over 4800.

Each dot is a Starlink satellite over the Pacific Ocean (Courtesy https://satellitemap.space/)


All a customer has to do is download the app set up the satellite receiver and plug it in.

 

Most of this week has been fairly quiet with waiting for the ship to unload our twelve containers and getting our paperwork to enable us to start work. Therefore, there’s not much to report on other fronts so I’ve concentrated on my walk around this Sunday morning. Until next time…

Location: F5JX+M7Q, Te Auala O Fongafale, Vaiaku, Tuvalu

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